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January 11, 2012
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Viikinkimiekka III by jarkko1 Viikinkimiekka III by jarkko1
Viikinkiaikaisen miekan jäljennös jonka valmistin opinnäytetyökseni Pohjois-Karjalan ammattiopistossa, tuotteen suunnittelun ja valmistuksen koulutusohjelmassa. Valmistuskuvia löytyy täältä [link]


This viking age sword I made as my thesis work in North Karelia vocational college crafts and design.

It is type I sword, in typology of petersen. Many swords of this type have been discovered from finland. Those are dated between 775-1000AD.

Blade is pattern welded. There is two pattern welded rods in the middle and solid carbon steel edges. Blade is forged to the shape, fuller is also forged. Blade is also hardened and it is sharp. Cross and pommel are made from iron, covered with copper and silver wire inlays.

Grip is wooden, covered with leather wire. Scabbard is also wooden, covered with leather. Strap bridge is made from oak.

Blade lenght is 82cm, and overall lenght 98cm. Weight is about 1,4 kg.

Some making of pictures are here [link]
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:iconarthurc:
ArthurC Featured By Owner Aug 20, 2014
Morks! Tällain kaksi vuotta metalliartesaani alaa opiskelleena, ja vain pari damaskoitua puukkoterää takana, mielenkiinnosta kyselen että miten tarkalleen saat noin selkeän rajan damaskoidun keskustan ja mono-teräksisen ulkoterän välille? Kuvettelisin että se todennäköisesti onnistuu helpoiten vain hiomalla tuo "veriura", eikä niinkään takomalla. Vai kuinka?

Inspiroivaa nähdä itseäni muutama vuosi nuoremman henkilön noin viimeisen päälle viimeisteltyä jälkeä. Awesome stuff bro!
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:iconjarkko1:
jarkko1 Featured By Owner Sep 3, 2014   Artisan Crafter
Minulla on ollut tapana tehdä veriurat takomalla. Veriuran takomisessa joutuu saumatkin senverran koetukselle että jos ne sen kestävät, kestävät ne varmasti käytössäkin. Damaskoinnin reunan saa kulkemaan siististi veriurassa kun joko suojaa teräreunat hapotuksen ajaksi, tai hapottaa koko terän ja hioo teräreunoja vielä vähän karkeammin jos damaskointi jossain vaeltelee reunan puolelle.
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:iconthecarrotcognac:
TheCarrotCognac Featured By Owner Jul 16, 2014  Student General Artist
Words fail to convey how beautiful this sword is. And inlays. So smooth reflection from hilt. Then there is scabbard. Just.. whoa..

When I'm dead I'm happy if I get a sword even half as beautiful in my grave!
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:iconjarkko1:
jarkko1 Featured By Owner Sep 3, 2014   Artisan Crafter
Kiitoksia vain.
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:iconsylamorase:
sylamorase Featured By Owner Jan 19, 2014
I hope that one day I can make pieces as beautiful as this.
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:iconocioproduction:
OcioProduction Featured By Owner Nov 18, 2013  Hobbyist General Artist
incredible!!
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:iconwolfencourt:
Wolfencourt Featured By Owner Jul 6, 2013  Hobbyist General Artist
This is frelling awesome! I am from Norway, but i also enjoy old finnish history. I hold the Kalevala
mythology very high in regard :)
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:iconjarkko1:
jarkko1 Featured By Owner Jul 10, 2013   Artisan Crafter
Thanks!
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:iconakresik:
Akresik Featured By Owner Feb 26, 2013
My my, now that is one absolutely freaking awesome sword I see here, and the scabbard too... I'm no swordsmith, but I'm planning to make a scabbard and all your scabbards are beautiful.. Could you point me to some resource on how to make the ornaments you do? Thanks in advance and once again - amazing work :-)
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:iconjarkko1:
jarkko1 Featured By Owner Apr 5, 2013   Artisan Crafter
I mainly use two ways to make ornaments. To thick leather (2mm or more), I draw (or press) patterns heavily with knitting needle. Leather must be wet to do so. Few different sized knitting needles are only tools I normally use. That method I mainly use into knife sheaths. For sword sheats, that have entirely wooden inside, I use thinner leather (about 1,5 mm) and I place leather wires or straps between wood and leather to make pattern. Wet leather covering is then sewed onto it, and lastly ornaments are made clearer by pressing the leather with knitting needle or other such tool.
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